Posts Tagged ‘no expensive bran’

Bocashi as a type of compost (rural) (Honduras)

January 9, 2011

HONDURAS – Making Bocashi Fertilizer

…  The basic recipe is to take a source of dry manure (chicken and goat) and mix it with a source of carbon (coffee hulls) and some soil and then start adding the extras. … three bags of ground charcoal, a bag of rice germ, a bag of agricultural lime, a gallon of molasses, and also a bag of finished bocashi as a starter. You mix it all together with enough water for 50% moisture and then you mix and monitor over then next 7 days. Essentially you have made a big pile of pickles for the earth. Not only does the bocashi add activated minerals, but the main function is to improve the microbial balance in the soil. It is sort of like an acidophillus pill for the soil. …  

Source: Farmer to Farmer Blog

Welcome!

March 15, 2010

September 12th, 2008
This website he original http : / / bokashicomposting.com/] is dedicated to the use and promotion of Bokashi composting using FREE naturally occurring beneficial indigenous micro-organisms (BIM)! Bokashi composting need not be expensive! No need for expensive commercial starters, expensive cultures, expensive bran or fancy buckets!

Download Bokashicomposting.pdf

Getting started (Part Three) Newspaper bokashi.

March 12, 2010

September 30th, 2008                   Source: the now extinct  http  :  /  /bokashicomposting.com/

Instead of using expensive bran I ferment newspaper to use between the layers of compost in the bucket.

I take one part lactobacillus serum to one part molasses to six parts water. (label and freeze any extra serum)

I soak a  bunch of newspapers thoroughly in the mixture and drain well.

newspaper soaking

I place the soaked newspapers in a 2 gallon zip lock baggie, remove all the air and seal.

soaked newspaper in ziplock bag

Place in a cool dark spot and wait 10 days to 2 weeks to get a good fermentation.

After the fermentation process I separate and dry the newspaper. It’s now the carrier for the bacteria.

Download complete instructions: Bokashicomposting.pdf

Starting a newspaper bokashi bucket.

March 10, 2010

October 1st, 2008                       Source : the now extinct: http  :  /  /bokashicomposting.com/

After the bokashi newspaper has thoroughly dried, it’s now the carrier for the digestive lacto bacteria.

I bought inexpensive snap-top buckets from Wal-Mart for about $5.00 each, the lids snap on and off easily, especially with the addition of a little olive oil rubbed around the rim.

I don’t bother with a drain….I place 1 to 2 inches of dry absorbent material in the bottom of the bucket (peat, shredded newspaper, or clean sawdust) and pack well.

To start the bucket I place a piece of the bokashi newspaper on top of the absorbent material, just enough to cover….then I start adding waste (chopped up)…up to a 1/2 inch layer at a time…add a piece of newspaper between each and every layer until the bucket is full….packing each layer well helps ensure a good fermentation. (I use a potato masher.)

That’s about all there is to it.

Oh, I’ve been experimenting with adding a tablespoon of healthy garden soil to the bucket after it’s started well (4-5 days) to culture more of the naturally occurring anaerobic digestive microorganisms, but I’m convinced it’s not necessary. The bokashi compost with just the lacto decomposed quickly in the garden and in my worm bins.

Download complete instructions: Bokashicomposting.pdf

Newspaper bokashi secrets.

March 9, 2010

October 17th, 2008                  Source : the now extinct: http  :  /  /bokashicomposting.com/

Well, not really secrets, mostly common sense.

I’ve never had a failed newspaper bokashi bucket when following these simple rules.

1. Start the bucket with a 1 to 2 inch layer of absorbent materials. (shredded newspaper, peat, sawdust or something similar.) This layer will soak up any excess nutrient drainage. (There’s nothing wrong with faucet buckets, other than the expense. I just prefer to keep things as cheap and easy as possible.)

2. Start your newspaper bokashi bucket with a layer of high carbohydrate waste. This jump starts the fermentation process ensuring success.

3. Place a piece of newspaper between each layer of waste. Make the layers no more than 1/2 an inch think. This ensures that the beneficial bacteria will spread throughout the waste quickly.

4. Chop the waste into small pieces, if possible. This gives the bacteria a larger surface area to feed upon. It also leads to faster final decomposition or digestion when your bokashi is buried, added to worm bins or added to an aerobic compost pile.

5. Compress the layers of waste tightly. This helps exclude air and helps transfer beneficial bacteria throughout the waste rapidly. (I place a piece of bokashi newspaper on top of the waste and press with a potato masher, there’s no mess as with bran bokashi. )

6. Never add spoiled waste to a bokashi bucket. Rotten and moldy waste will introduce rogue organisms that can cause a bucket to fail.

7. Always close the lid lightly to exclude air.

8. Do not add excess amounts of fluids to your bokashi bucket.

9. Collect waste throughout the day and add to the bucket at the end of the day. This minimizes exposure to outside air.

10. Add waste at least once a day. It’s usually not a problem to skip a day or two occasionally, once the bucket is well established.

Good luck with your newspaper bokashi!!!!

Download complete instructions: Bokashicomposting.pdf

Newspaper bokashi, instead of expensive bran

March 8, 2010

 Source : the now extinct: http  :  /  /bokashicomposting.com/

Instead of using expensive bran I ferment newspaper to use between the layers of compost in the bucket.

I take one part lactobacillus serum to one part molasses to six parts water. (label and freeze any extra serum)

I soak a  bunch of newspapers thoroughly in the mixture and drain well.

I place the soaked newspapers in a 2 gallon zip lock baggie, remove all the air and seal.

Place in a cool dark spot and wait 10 days to 2 weeks to get a good fermentation.

After the fermentation process I separate and dry the newspaper. It’s now the carrier for the bacteria.

After the bokashi newspaper has thoroughly dried, it’s now the carrier for the digestive lacto bacteria.

I bought inexpensive snap-top buckets from Wal-Mart for about $5.00 each, the lids snap on and off easily, especially with the addition of a little olive oil rubbed around the rim.

I don’t bother with a drain….I place 1 to 2 inches of dry absorbent material in the bottom of the bucket (peat, shredded newspaper, or clean sawdust) and pack well.

To start the bucket I place a piece of the bokashi newspaper on top of the absorbent material, just enough to cover….then I start adding waste (chopped up)…up to a 1/2 inch layer at a time…add a piece of newspaper between each and every layer until the bucket is full….packing each layer well helps ensure a good fermentation. (I use a potato masher.)

That’s about all there is to it.

Oh, I’ve been experimenting with adding a tablespoon of healthy garden soil to the bucket after it’s started well (4-5 days) to culture more of the naturally occurring anaerobic digestive microorganisms, but I’m convinced it’s not necessary. The bokashi compost with just the lacto decomposed quickly in the garden and in my worm bins.

Download complete instructions: Bokashicomposting.pdf

Make your own FREE bokashi starter.

March 7, 2010

Summary of Google cache (February 2010) for Bokashi Composting. Newspaper Bokashi Secrets, the now extinct: http  :  /  /bokashicomposting.com/

Making your own bokashi starter culture in place of commercially available EM is incredibly easy.

My goal from the start was to produce bokashi compost without the use of expensive EM, bran or fancy buckets.

The most important component of the commercial EM in relation to bokashi is lactobacillus bacteria, the others are secondary (if at all necessary) and can be cultured in the bucket when conditions are favorable.

I culture my own lactobacillus serum starting with a rice wash water solution.

Making the serum is amazingly simple.

  • I mix one part rice thoroughly with two parts water (1/2 a cup to one cup).
  • Mix thoroughly and vigorously.
  • Drain.
  • The resulting water should be cloudy.
  • Place the rice water in a container with 50-75% head space allowing plenty of air to circulate.
  • Cover lightly (air should be able to move in and out of the container) and place in a cool dark spot for 5-8 days.
  • At the end of the wait the mixture should smell mildly sour.
  • Strain out any particles.
  • Put the finished rice water solution in a bigger container and add 10 parts milk (I use skim).
  • DO NOT seal tightly, the gases must be able to escape.
  • Allow 14 days for a complete ferment, most of the solids in the milk will float to the top revealing the yellowish serum.
  • Strain off the solids.
  • You now have purified lactobacillus serum.

[Summary, Google cache for http  :  /  /bokashicomposting.com/]   Download reorganized version of that site

Cutting the Hype on EM Bokashi (0)

January 19, 2009

oodchuck] (…)

Bokashi compliments vermiculture.

I noticed at a neighbors farm a few years ago that compost worms were thriving in corn silage that had spilled down around the outside of the silo, I had always read that acidity was bad for worms and that they wouldn’t do well in low PH, turns out that was a lie, not only were they thriving they were converting the fermented silage into castings at a rapid rate.
It wasn’t long after that that I stumbled upon the bokashi thing while searching composting videos on youtube.
I immediately said to myself, all this is is ensiling, it was then that I started experimenting.
So, not only is the bokashi broken down fairly rapidly by the worms, the waste is also stabilized for long periods of time so I can ration it out to the worms. I only wish I had more worms to work with.

There are other advantages…..bokashi is impregnated with digestive bacteria, mostly lactobacillus so it breaks down very rapidly…..convenience…..there are minimal foul smells……no fruit flies or other varmints…….for those living in colder climates the stabilized bokashi compost can be banked in winter months and added to worm bins, regular compost piles or buried in the ground or containers in the spring…to name a few…….
Source: http://alanbishop.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=soilbuilding&action=display&thread=2126